Kamthieng House Museum, Bangkok

For most tourists to Thailand, as well as for long-term residents of the Kingdom, a trip to one of the larger museums is almost always on the agenda. And with all the vast collections of classical Thai art displayed in stunning settings in those museums, any visitor will surely be enraptured by the beauty and mystery of Thai classical art.

But no less unusual and alluring to those raised in the occident, and even those Thais that have spent their lives surrounded by the modern environs of Bangkok, are the handicrafts of the people of northern Thailand. Whether made by artisans from the north's many hill tribes or by ethnic-Thai craftsmen, the beauty of the north's arts, crafts and architecture is no-less breathtaking than that of classical Thai art. But don't think that a chance to appreciate such works will require a trip upcountry: anyone who wants to experience this beauty need travel no further than the ethnological museum at Kamthieng House, in the compound of the Siam Society, right in the heart of Bangkok.

The Siam Society had wanted a museum dedicated to the wonders of the north ever since its founding in 1904, hoping that just such a museum would help visitors broaden their understanding of Thai life and culture. The Society believes that since nearly 80 percent of the population is engaged in agriculture, their exhibit should showcase the way of life of the "common man," as opposed to most museums which usually feature objects from royal households.

The Society had to wait nearly 60 years before a house was donated for use as a museum site. In 1963 a native of Chiang Mai by the name of Mrs. Kimhaw decided the Society was a suitable location for her teak abode. The Society then decided to name the house after the donor's mother, Mrs. Kamthieng.

The house had been located along the cool banks of the Ping River in Chiang Mai for over 100 years before it was carefully dismantled and transported to Bangkok in 1964, where it was painstakingly reassembled in the Siam Society's garden. Despite having undergone such an operation, the house looks no worse for wear. Nor has its radiance been tarnished by being located in the City of Angels, where the urban sprawl surrounding it is about as far removed as one can get from the lush northern jungle that was once the house's backyard.

In the north of Thailand a home is considered to be incomplete if it doesn't have five important sections: a well for the household's daily supply of water; a rice-pounding shed, where the older daughters of a family and the men who try to court them can prepare the rice for the next day's meal; a kitchen; a granary for storing rice; and a main house for dining and sleeping in. The society decided to have all five of these sections set up here for the sake of authenticity.

Sturdy teak pillars, so thick that it is impossible to wrap one's arms around them, lift the main house high above the ground. This practical measure not only has the obvious benefit 3 of protecting the house from floods and wild animals, but also allows the house to exploit any cooling breeze, a real boon during the long, hot summers. Topping the gables of the house are kaleh or carved pairs of wood. Looking something like wooden swords pointing towards the heavens, they are believed to represent buffalo horns and are an exclusive to the region, being found only in the domestic architecture of the north.

Take off your shoes and climb the stairs that lead up into the main house and the first section reached is the covered verandah. Spread out on a mat upon the smoothly polished floor to one side is a display of leisure-time items, such as betel nut, home-made cigarettes, and other things to help while away the time. On the opposite side of the verandah is the dining area, where many ceramics used for eating are on display. In the rafters above this area are small, round dining tables as well as little red clay water bottles, which are traditionally stored this way.

To the right of the verandah is the doorways that lead to the inner rooms of the house. Directly above these are ham yon or carved wooden panels. Some of these panels depict scenes of ogres and demons in fierce poses, while others have cloud-like designs on them. They are believed to act as magical charms to help ward off evil spirits and ghosts and are expected to become even more powerful as the house ages. Although these panels were once nearly ubiquitous in the north, today they have been almost entirely replaced by modern architecture. It would be very difficult now to find a craftsman who still carves them.

Once inside the inner room the visitor is greeted by a display of several musical instruments on the left. A little further beyond is a glass case containing many household ceramics. On the other side is the sleeping area - which is reserved for the owner of the house and his wife and is normally located in the north-east corner of the house - as well as a small spirit altar. All around the room are glass cases housing displays of many other objects.

Sticky rice is normally associated with Iisarn or the north-eastern region of Thailand, but the people of the north are certainly no stranger to its fragrant taste. As if to prove this point, the museum has a number of woven bamboo baskets used for holding that particular food on display in the kitchen here. These types of baskets are carried out to the fields of the north by farmers, who dip in their hands and pull out a fistful of the sticky staple to accommodate their meals while far away from home.

Surrounding the main house on all sides are exhibits of many different articles, including delicate woodcarvings from both temples and houses in the north, as well as everyday household items used by farmers and fisherman.

The traditional woodcarving exhibit features many more of the large teak ham yon panels. They vary widely in design, but all share the same high-quality craftsmanship. Any one of them requires a lengthy study by the casual visitor to fully appreciate the hard work that must have gone into them.

Not to be outdone by the crafts of the secular world, the pieces from various monasteries that line the walls surrounding 3 the house also show off the skill of the artisans of the north. Mythological figures, such as majestic-looking serpents, are awe inspiring and their unique beauty and can't help but install a deep hatred for modern architecture in the heart of anyone who sees them.

Located nearby are several looms in all sizes for spinning silk, as well as a large wooden cart that is traditionally used for transporting the fabric after it has been spun. Off to left are two traditional drums, one so massive that to be moved it has to be transport in its own cart.

The Kamthieng House Museum is located at 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke) in the compound of the Siam Society. It is open on weekdays from 9:00 to 12:00 and from 1:00 to 4:00. The admission fee is 50 baht.